The vice trick seems to work best.Ī few bucks, a little time, your back in business. To the point of sweet talking a pharmacist out of very small gauge syringes for diabetics so that I could fill from the bottom up. I've tried a whole different menu of things to improve this procedure.
STOCK CRACK REPAIR FULL
Those little micro balloons are full of it. It's just a necessity when folks want stuff really light. When it cures it'll have plenty of surfaces to bond to and stay put. Most of Tom's for end filler material is fairly porous so the capillary action will take on a life of its own once it gets in there. The trick is getting that resin to saturate as far into the fracture as you can.
When the little air bubbles slow down, clamp it shut, wipe away the excess, and go make pig candy on the BBQ for a few hours. Keep it coated and just keep working it back and forth. Capillary action will start to draw that resin into the crack. Just a little effort will close this and the crack will open again once relaxed. (rags, leather, whatever, just so you don't kill the finish with direct knurled steel contact) start opening/closing the vice. Acid brushes are a gunsmiths mistress Cheap and easy.lol Now, with soft jaws on your shop vice. Start painting it into the fracture as best you can. This is the part few take seriously, but its absolutely critical. When your wrist starts to hurt, you are half way there. Whip it up, and by that I mean MIX THE SNOT OUT OF IT! You MUST get the catalyst introduced to the resin. A marina is more apt to try and sell you a gallon of it. Hobby shops sell this stuff in little squeeze bottles. Run down to a boat store or an RC hobby shop and buy a colorless resin system with a medium cure rate. You can solve this at home if you have a shop vice. As for fixing your stock, it's pretty easy. Thus far the stocks have tolerated it well.Ī little work, but no big deal. I've done this on several "gamer guns" where guys want a single stud rather than a "pic rail". Exactly why you don't see recoil lugs on guns shaped like log splitters. IE, the moment at play when you full throttle this thing at a mover stage or whatever. What does this do? It spreads that load and gets it closer to where the work is being done. (I say this because its sure to be asked at some point by someone.lol) I would think were all in good enough physical shape to endure an extra 2-3 oz if were playing "gamer gun" on the weekends. 86 the flimsy T nut made of stamped whatever. Now whip up some decent quality resin and capture that thing with the tapped hole aligned to the existing one for the sling swivel. Shoot for anywhere between a 1/4 to 3/8 in thickness. Make it as wide as reasonably allowed by the barrel channel. Machine a block from AL or even steel and tap it for the hole. It requires robust equipment and a bipod endures a rather challenging life during all of this. Having shot PRS events personally I appreciate how "enthusiastic" a guy can be as he attempts to ring the bells on a stage. The length of the screw is maybe 5/8" long. The load applied to that fastener is concentrated to a relatively small area. We have a #10-32 fastener attached to a T nut and separated by some sheets of composite and squishy filler material that tries like hell to be tough. That is what lead you down the path you have before you now.
Not that this will help you, the OP, but maybe someone will benefit from it.
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